Types of weaves
There are three basic stypes of weaves i.e plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. Most other types are variations on these 3 except for patterned weaves. These are complex structures that requires special devices attached to the loom. Every woven fabric has a ribbon like edge or selvedge running lengthwise along each side. Fabrics with smooth, tightly twisted yarns and a high thread count are the most durable.
Plain weave: The simplest of the weave construction in which each piling yarn goes alternately over and under each warp yarn. Sturdiness varies with strength of the yarns and compactness of the weave structure. e.g muslin, volie, percale.
Twill weave: A basic structure in which weft yarn passes over atleast 2 but not more than 4 warp yarns. On each successive line, the weft moves one step to the right or left, forming a diagonal ridge- the steeper the ridge, the stronger the fabric. e.g Denim, gaberdine, cotton and woolen twill.
Rib weave: A variation of the plain weave in which fine yarns are alternated with coarse yarns or single with multiple yarns. The altenating thickness may be parallel, or at right angle producing a ridged corded effect. Durability is limited as yarn is exposed to friction e.g Ottoman
Satin weave: A basic structure in which a warp yarn passes over 4-8 weft yarns in a stagged pattern similar to that of twill weave. Yarns exposed to the surface called floats given satin its characterstic sheen. Sateen weave usually of cotton fibre-( cotton satin, glazed cotton, nylon satin, shamer satin) is a variation in which the floats are formed by the weft yarns.
Pile weave: Here as extra filling or warp yarn added to the basic plain or twill weave by means of thick wiresm the additional yarn is drawn into loops on the fabric surface. These loops can be cut as for plush, sheared as for velvet or left in loop form as terry cloth e.g corduroy, velvet, fake fur.
Swivel weave: To acheive this weave, an extra pilling yarn is added to form a circle or other figure on the basic weave. e.g dotted swiss cotton, coin dot chemille
Other weaves include dobby weave, jackquard weave, gauze weave etc.
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