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Block print fabrics
Block print is the oldest method of calico printing in which wooden block is used. It is the simplest method. Rajasthan is the main center for block printing. Jodhpur, Udaipur, Chittorgarh, Nalhdwara, Jaipur are some of the main centers for block prints.
The main centres in India for block printing is gujrat and western rajasthan. The block prints of rajasthan are mughal inspired floral prints. The cities like Bague and Sangaver closed to jaipur, the capital city of rajasthan produce much block printed fabric for the export fashion trade. They originally produced textile for the local market. The prints produced were aimed mostly at local, rural women but the designs in both places reflected the purssian influence which is very permanent in rajasthan since 17 th century. Bague prints are usually on a light brown background whereas sangaver prints have a white background. In recent years Bague is more famous as a block printed fabric. Sangaver on the other hand turned in many parts to screen printing their design on fabric.
In western India cloth printing blocks are usually made out of teak or sisum blocks made at pethkur near ahmedabad and considered to be the best centre for making blocks. Other centres are Farukhabad, Mathura, Delhi and Jaipur. The block printing trade in India is controlled largely by business who produce fabric dyes, blocks and designs to have good work. Blocks and designs discarded by them are used by the poorer counter parts in the villages. Hand block printed in India is much appreciated in the whole world. However even today the method of printing are very primitive and extreamly labour intensive.
Centres of block printing is Rajasthan. The others are Bikaner, Jaiselmer, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Jaipur which are closed to it. In earlier dayz Udaipuur used blocks made of sandalwood which would leave its perfume on the fabric.
Sangaver is situated about 50 miles to the south east of Jaipur. The designs are common and well known. The designs are based on traditional motifs like paslies, flowers, leaves, birds, centre line patterns. Border with grape wine movement are well used in design. Most of these pattern have an outline block. This is printed in black or any other dark color. The filling is done with one two or more lighter shades. Commonly colors used are yellow, brown, indigo, rust, black etc.
A special feature of this block printing is that a variety of design is used on same piece of cloth. The pattern of floral motifs are strongly influenced by mughal designs. The block prints possess richness and purity of color.The prints produced by this method are of great decorative value but it is a time consuming process. Delicate shedding is not possible in block printing. It is very difficult to obtain it.
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